-
Fabrication and
mounting of the bat
fins.
-
Engine Cover and
hinge mounting
-
Complete re wiring
-
Fabrication
of steel windshield
frame
-
Fabrication
and construction of
Convertible
Top
-
Fabrication
of back window
-
Fabrication of Front
Beam support
structure
-
Fabrication
of Gull Wing Doors
-
Constructing
retractable
Headlights
-
Mounting and fitting
of front turn signal
lights
-
Mounting and fitting
of Gas Tank
-
Fabrication and
installation of side
scoops
-
Fabrication
of a 2"body lift
Fabrication
of Gull Wing Doors
In the
above photo I first had
to build a jig to bend
the 1/2" X 1/2" 16 gauge
square section tubing. I
cut 1/2" steel plate to
the correct radius I
wanted. I then made a
pivot arm with a bearing
with the same radius. I
then heated the tubing
where it was to be bent
to a cherry red, put it
in the steel jig and
pulled the radius around
the 1/2"plate template.
It worked perfect.
I used
the inside of the door
opening and custom bent
the tubing to fit each
door frame. I used a
piece of 1 1/2" X 1/8"
thick steel bar welded
to the frame inside so I
would have a good strong
place to mount the
hinges. I drilled and
tapped the holes to a #
8 -32 stainless steel
flat head Allen screw
5/8" long. I used the
recommended stainless
steel boat hinges used
originally on the
Bradley GT.
I also
welded a vertical piece
of 1 1/2 strap in the
center to mount the door
handle and several other
brackets to hold the
spring and other door
latch hardware.
Above: I
then bought a 48" X 96"
X .090 sheet of
polyethylene plastic to
start the fiber glassing
process. I cut it a
little larger than the
door opening to test the
size, I bent the plastic
to the shape of my metal
door frame. I clamped to
to make sure it would
work. Every thing worked
just as I had hoped.
Above: I
then cut three layers of
fiberglass cloth to
match the door shape. I
mixed up a large batch
of resin with black
pigment and proceeded to
brush the resin on the
polyethylene sheet
first. I then added the
first layer of glass
cloth and brushed more
resin until the first
layer of cloth was
saturated. I continued
adding cloth and resin
until all three layers
were saturated. Then I
took my metal frame,
centered it correctly on
the wet glass and resin
and clamped and weighted
the bottom with as much
weight as as I could
find. I then bent the
plastic to the door
frame clamping all
the way around the edge
sandwiching wet
fiberglass between the
polyethylene plastic and
the steel door frame.
Above:
After the fiberglass had
cured the clamps were
removed and the
polyethylene plastic
came right off leaving a
perfectly smooth finish.
Several more layers of
fiberglass matt were
added to the inside
making the thickness
about 3/16" thick total.
Above:
The edges were then
shaped and sanded to fit
the door opening. I then
filled the top of the
door with expanding
polyurethane foam.
Above: I
made a special jig and
used my router to make
the foam a uniform
thickness. Two layers of
fiberglass were used to
seal the foam.
Above: I
used a hole saw to form
my window opening. After
cutting the holes, I
used my router and a
guide to finish off the
window opening.
Above: I
used gas door lifters to
hold the door up.
Above:
Another view of the door
open and one closed and
locked.
Above:
Inside view of the door
closed and locked. You
can see the locking
mechanism in the picture
on the left.
Above:
Both doors fitted and
finished.
Above:
Installing window
rubber and Plexiglas.
Above:Plexiglass
window rubber installed.
Cutting and fitting 3/8
diamond pattern vinyl
upholstery
Above:
Upholstery glued with
3-M Scotch 77 adhesive
and trimmed with X-acto
knife.
Above:
Door mounted in the open
position. Forty lb Gas
shock mounting with door
closed in the photo on
right.
|