The Bat Dude

Building the Bat Car


Fabrication of Gull Wing Doors




  1. Fabrication and mounting of the bat fins.

  2. Engine Cover and hinge mounting

  3. Complete re wiring

  4. Fabrication of steel windshield frame

  5. Fabrication and construction of Convertible  Top

  6. Fabrication of back window

  7. Fabrication of Front Beam support structure

  8. Fabrication of Gull Wing Doors

  9. Constructing retractable Headlights

  10. Mounting and fitting of front turn signal lights

  11. Mounting and fitting of Gas Tank

  12. Fabrication and installation of side scoops

  13. Fabrication of a 2"body lift

Fabrication of Gull Wing Doors

In the above photo I first had to build a jig to bend the 1/2" X 1/2" 16 gauge square section tubing. I cut 1/2" steel plate to the correct radius I wanted. I then made a pivot arm with a bearing with the same radius. I then heated the tubing where it was to be bent to a cherry red, put it in the steel jig and pulled the radius around the 1/2"plate template. It worked perfect.

I used the inside of the door opening and custom bent the tubing to fit each door frame. I used a piece of 1 1/2" X 1/8" thick steel bar welded to the frame inside so I would have a good strong place  to mount the hinges. I drilled and tapped the holes to a # 8 -32 stainless steel flat head Allen screw 5/8" long. I used the recommended stainless steel boat hinges used originally on the Bradley GT.

I also welded a vertical piece of 1 1/2 strap in the center to mount the door handle and several other brackets to hold the spring and other door latch hardware.


Above: I then bought a 48" X 96" X .090 sheet of polyethylene plastic to start the fiber glassing process. I cut it a little larger than the door opening to test the size, I bent the plastic to the shape of my metal door frame. I clamped to to make sure it would work. Every thing worked just as I had hoped.

Above: I then cut three layers of fiberglass cloth to match the door shape. I mixed up a large batch of resin with black pigment and proceeded to brush the resin on the polyethylene sheet first. I then added the first layer of glass cloth and brushed more resin until the first layer of cloth was saturated. I continued adding cloth and resin until all three layers were saturated. Then I took my metal frame, centered it correctly on the wet glass and resin and clamped and weighted the bottom with as much weight as as I could find. I then bent the plastic to the door frame clamping  all the way around the edge sandwiching wet fiberglass between the polyethylene plastic and the steel door frame.

Above: After the fiberglass had cured the clamps were removed and the polyethylene plastic came right off leaving a perfectly smooth finish. Several more layers of fiberglass matt were added to the inside making the thickness about 3/16" thick total.

Above: The edges were then shaped and sanded to fit the door opening. I then filled the top of the door with expanding polyurethane foam.

Above: I made a special jig and used my router to make the foam a uniform thickness. Two layers of fiberglass were used to seal the foam.

Above: I used a hole saw to form my window opening. After cutting the holes, I used my router and a guide to finish off the window opening.

Above: I used gas door lifters to hold the door up.

Above: Another view of the door open and one closed and locked.

Above: Inside view of the door closed and locked. You can see the locking mechanism in the picture on the left.

Above: Both doors fitted and finished.

Above: Installing window rubber and Plexiglas.


Above:Plexiglass window rubber installed. Cutting and fitting 3/8 diamond pattern vinyl upholstery

Above: Upholstery glued with 3-M Scotch 77 adhesive and trimmed with X-acto knife.

 Above: Door mounted in the open position. Forty lb Gas shock mounting with door closed in the photo on right.