The Bat Dude

Building the Bat Car

 

Fabricating and installing Side Scoops

 

  1. Fabrication and mounting of the bat fins.

  2. Engine Cover and hinge mounting

  3. Complete re wiring

  4. Fabrication of steel windshield frame

  5. Fabrication and construction of Convertible  Top

  6. Fabrication of back window

  7. Fabrication of Front Beam support structure

  8. Fabrication of Gull Wing Doors

  9. Constructing retractable Headlights

  10. Mounting and fitting of front turn signal lights

  11. Mounting and fitting of Gas Tank

  12. Fabrication and installation of side scoops

  13. Fabrication of a 2"body lift

Fabricating and installing Side Scoops

I wanted to add some side scoops and I liked the look of the 1994 to 1998 Ford Mustang scoop. I bought the right and left sheet metal scoops off of EBAY.

Above: I cut the fiberglass quarter panel off my donor car using a Skill saw and a Sawzall. I then marked out a grid on both the right and left quarter panels. Using the scoop I marked where I wanted my scoops to be.

Above: I cut the scoop shape out of the fiberglass panel.

Above: I used a router to make the sheet metal scoop flush with the fiberglass panel. Then I used resin to glue the sheet metal to the panel using several clamps and weights to make it flush.

Above: I used corrugated cardboard on the back of the panel and then I poured two part polyurethane expanding foam into the cavity. When the foam hardened I used a regular hand saw to cut of the excess foam making it flush with the panel.

Above: Using 60 grit sandpaper I sculpted the foam into a dish shape that would follow the contour of the metal scoop and gradually feather into the fiberglass body. After that I used body filler around the metal scoop and sanded it smooth.

Above: I then mixed up a batch of black pigmented resin with fiberglass cloth cut into 1/8” pieces and coated the Polyurethane foam with the mixture.

 Time to make the molds

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Above: The molds were waxed and a thin coat of PVA was sprayed on. Next since I didn’t have any gel coat, I used regular resin thinned with acetone and sprayed through a primer spray gun. I added white pigment and spayed three coats, letting each coat set up tacky before I sprayed the next.

Above: When the third coat of resin had set up, but was still tacky, I laid in a special satin weave fiberglass cloth used in making spheres and other intricate fiberglass aircraft parts. This cloth will follow a contour without bunching up or folding.

Above: When the third coat of fiberglass and resin had set up, I mixed up a batch of resin with 50% by volume of hollow glass balls and some chopped fiber glass for filling in the center.

Above: Once the cavity was full, I added several layers of fiberglass mat for strength. The next day I removed the shape from the mold.

Above: The next day I removed the shape from the mold and mixed up a layer of matt and resin and glued and clamped it to a piece of one inch thick particle board to keep it flat.

Above: Once the mold was secured to the backing, I made a perimeter of 1/8” foam tape to get the thickness I needed a lip to glue the scoop in place with. See illustration below.

Above: I filled in around the 1/8 foam tape with 1/8” Bondo, sanded smooth and covered with 2” wide aluminum tape. (resin does not stick well to aluminum tape.) Once the Bondo was dry I removed the foam tape using Lacquer thinner and a small putty knife

 

Time to make the actual scoops

 

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Above right: I covered all my bondo work with aluminum tape. The molds were waxed and a thin coat of PVA was sprayed on. Next once again I didn’t have any gel coat, so I used regular resin thinned with acetone and sprayed through a primer spray gun. I added black pigment and spayed three coats, letting each coat set up tacky before I sprayed the next.

 

 

Above: When the third coat of resin had set up, but was still tacky, I laid in the special satin weave fiberglass cloth used in making spheres. This cloth is really amazing for following a contour without bunching up or folding. I then brushed on black pigmented resin with a brush.

 

 

Above: while still wet, I immediately put everything in my vacuum frame with a polythene sheet and used my vacuum pump to pull out all the air and to make a good tight seal while the resin set up. I did three layers of fiberglass and resin vacuuming each before taking the parts out of the mold.

 

 

Above: I then cut my parts out with a die grinder and drilled my holes for the mustang scoop inserts. Then I made sure everything fit correctly.

 

 

Above: I evenly spaced 18 1/4”-20 square nuts on the back side perimeter, gluing them down with resin. To make it even stronger I mixed a batch of Bondo and put that over each nut and let dry for a day.

 

 

Above: after the Bondo had cured hard I cleaned out the holes with a drill and ran a 1/4” -20 tap to clean out any excess Bondo. Now we are ready to mount h the scoops in the car.

 

Time to install the scoops on the car

 

Below:

 

 

Above: I made a pattern off my mold and marked the side of the car where the scoop was to be installed. I used a saber saw to cut the hole. Then I drilled holes to match where the holes were on the scoop.

 

 

Above: I pushed the scoop inside the body and pulled it tight against the lip on the scoop. Then I mixed up some resin and glued the scoop to the inside of the car body. I then quickly screwed in my 1/4”-20 bolts and fender washers to hold the scoop in place while the resin set up.

See diagram below.

 

 

 

 

Above: The bolts kept the scoops flush with the body while the resin set up. I then removed all the bolts and filled the holes with body filler. I then finish sanded everything smooth and used a thin layer of glazing putty to finish it off.

 

 

Above: After the Bondo had cured hard I made sure the scoop insert fit correctly. I then filled both sides of the car the behind the scoops with two part polyurethane foam for strength. Photo on the right shows what the scoops look like after the car was painted. From start to finish the scoops took almost a year to fabricate and install.